⁠What’s the most underrated fragrance house?

⁠What’s the most underrated fragrance house?

One of the most loved and respected voices in the fragrance community (Rahul Agarwal from Eternal Scent Journey) shares his thoughts on authentic slow perfumery ... a fascinating read !

What’s the most underrated fragrance house or perfumer that you think deserves more recognition?

Gallivant is often overlooked precisely because it doesn’t chase attention. Nick Steward’s vision is clean, curious, and completely unforced. What I admire most is the economy of language in both the scent and the storytelling; no marketing bloat, no gimmicks. Just well-constructed, city-inspired fragrances that wear effortlessly and evolve quietly. Scents like Tokyo or Los Angeles prove that transparency and character can coexist, something many niche brands haven’t figured out. It’s not about mass appeal; it’s about longevity of ideas, not just wear.

In a world that’s increasingly obsessed with edgy branding, useless storytelling, and bottles that perform better on shelves than skin, I find myself gravitating toward those who quietly craft magic without theatrics. Two names come to mind immediately when I think about perfumers that are totally underrated. Patrice Revillard and Céline Perdriel. Both, in very distinct ways, are quietly shaping some of the most refined work in modern perfumery. 

Patrice Revillard, co-founder of Maelstrom and trained in the traditions of ISIPCA, has this rare ability to take classical forms, especially with florals, fougères, and even abstract woods, and blend them with a kind of disciplined emotion, making them modern and contemporary at the same time. 

Céline Perdriel, on the other hand, has a more intimate, skin-focused signature; her florals feel lived-in rather than arranged. Rose Ardoise by Atelier Materi and AR RIYĀD & DUBAI by Gallivant are great examples. There’s modernity in her restraint. While many perfumers try to impress with volume, she seduces with texture. Both Patrice and Céline are shaping a kind of contemporary floral language. One that doesn’t scream “new” but somehow reimagines the timelessness with a modern hand. Their work is graceful, deliberate, profoundly tactile, and long overdue for recognition.

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